Router lift for ALDI WorkZone router table.
Made some improvements and also fixed a few issues.
This is where it's at...all come together quite well.
Setup the router with a 16mm straight bit and set the depth to 2mm (router lift works well) and cut the rebate on the MDF blade cover - nice.
With the blade running clear of the guard put a nicer cover restraint on the frame, simply swing it down to open the left blade guard cover.
Added some plywood covers for the motor and there is still plenty of ventilation.
For the desk chair.
The original castors don’t roll smoothly any more, not helped by being clogged up with dog hair which is to hard to remove. Just get a new set.
Router lift for ALDI Workzone router table - not able to get to the workshop till late this afternoon but still managed to do something - get the scissor jack working !
Router lift for ALDI WorkZone router table.
In the end I had to drop the jack down a lot further than first envisaged.
And even had to add spacer block.
Look’s like they are closing in the south east side (lake side) of the main market complex which is good news for everyone on those inclement weather days.
Scissor jack failure!
As posted earlier the scissor jack failed (see first pic). It's surprising how much upward force is required to overcome the router plunge springs.
We need to beef up the pivot arms from dowel to larger blocks.
Investigating the possibility of using a car scissors jack as a router lift ALDI WorkZone router table.
Made a simple fence for the saw, the epoxy is drying to secure the 8 mm lock bolt that screws up from below into a threaded hole in the base.
Next job is to route a track for the mitre gauge.
The saw is safe to use now
Left side hinged blade cover.
The blade guide arm also has a cover. Still need to cut some tracks with the router for a fence and mitre gauge.
Running out of scrap plywood to finish the motor cover.
With the new table aligned and fixed with screws moved onto some other things like designing a blade guard cover and a motor cover.
Clamping up the bits that make up the front blade guard cover.
Back tracked a bit to do some tidying up before making a proper table for the saw.
The bearing flange blocks still need to be glued so took the wheels off to do that and then screwed them back on with the same orientation as before. With the wheels off washed the inside of the 'truck inner tube' tyres.
All the electrical wiring and motor start capacitor is now housed in the base of the saw.
Made a base for the saw and redesigned the motor mount assembly which can now bee easily adjusted for pulley alignment and belt tension adjustment.
The motor assembly can slide left or right for belt tension and move front to back for pulley alignment.
As previously posted the wheels now have larger bearings pressed into flange blocks. The wheels are now mounted on larger 10mm shafts – runs nice and smooth.
The 608 skateboard bearings could not handle the load.
Having upgraded the bearings from Skateboard 608's to 6200 2RS (30/10mm) I also now need to upsize the upper wheel mount block. As it turned out I ended up completely redesigning the upper wheel mount.
Having completed the upper wheel, we now need to dismantled some stuff around the bottom of the saw to gain access and remove the lower wheel.
When I removed the lower wheel I noticed the bearings, like the upper lot...were completely stuffed.
When making bandsaw wheels there are three basic things to keep in mind; wobble, run-out and lastly wheel balancing.
Mounting the bearing flanges on the upper wheel.
Pressed in the bearings and pre drilled the flanges.
Got some hardware stuff from ALDI this morning including a couple of castor sets @ $10 each, Bunnings price would be like 3 times that.
Some of the stuff I need to use larger 10mm ID bearings.
Dropped into my local tyre place in Scoresby and asked the guy there if he had any used inner tubes. I was lucky as they are not used so much these days, he came back from the bin with a truck inner tube from a job the day before...and it's a perfect fit!
The 608 skateboard wheel bearings are breaking down, the MDF wheels are pretty small and light so I suspect the bearing can't handle the blade tension forces. We need larger bearings and...mount them in flanges glued and screwed on either side of each wheel.
You can see the debris at the bottom of the wheel shaft slot from the ruptured front bearing.
Not happy the way the saw is running, there’s to much wheel wobble – why ???
Removed the blade to check the wheels and was shocked to find they are just flopping around, something drastic has happened to the bearings.
For V1.1 we will use the larger 6200 2RS (12/32) bearings, two per wheel mounted in flange blocks.
The motor will be moved closer to the front (reduce footprint) so the V-belt will directly drive a Vee pulley fixed to the back of the lower wheel.
Meanwhile made a hinged blade cover for the left and also added the third thrust bearing to the guide assembly.
BTW: Grabbed another ALDI LED lamp reduced to $10 from $15, last one so don't make fun about my colour choice.
As posted pulled out the nice brushless motor from the Simpson washing machine and yesterday spent some time thinking about how make the motor mount assembly.
The motor needs to adjust in all four directions, front to back for pulley adjustment and left to right for belt tension.
The motor runs at 1400rpm, perfect for this type of application and has ample power.
Doing some test cutting on the saw which is powered by a Simpson washing machine motor.
Finally doing some test cutting, the filming abruptly ended but is was simply the drill chuck coming loose on the drive shaft. I think we need a better solution to drive the saw.
Working out how to wire up and bench test the Simpson washing machine motor.
We need something better than a electric drill to drive the saw, what about a bench grinder.
Took off one of the wheels and was preparing to make a pulley for the grinder shaft to drive the saw with a Vee belt when I thought of the Simpson washing machine in the back of the van.
See next post...
Paid a visit to to the older daughters place on the weekend for lunch and some doggie playtime...and to pick-up the family van. In the back was her faulty washing machine which I asked them not to dispose of as I want to use the motor to power the saw.
Wondering if the motor will be suitable for the bandsaw...and can I get it to work?
I haven't posted any updates for a week or so because I've been going backwards – not to worry. Gave up with the Melamine wheels and switched to MDF which is featured in this post. Also spent time setting up a sewing machine motor to power the saw to underpowered. Then tried a grass trimmer motor, power OK but revs are far to high. For now powering the bandsaw with a Bosch drill.
Not posted any updates for a week or so because I've been going backwards - but that's OK. Gave up with the Melamine wheels and switched to MDF which is featured in this post. Also spent time setting up a sewing machine motor but not enough grunt, then tried a grass trimmer motor, power OK but revs far to high...so for now powering the bandsaw with a Bosch drill. Another thing...I think the skateboard bearings are really to small even for 8”/20cm wheels, might have to visit Schunk in Scoresby.
Bolted both wheels onto the shaft to trim them to same size and minimize radial run out, then put a 5° crown on each one.
Purchased this from ALDI in August 2015 and earlier this year it stopped working. I have been dealing all year with the left eyeball and poo...
