14" Bandsaw – Part 2 020118

The standard fence will not move far enough back so I removed that and setup a length of pine timber with clamps.

14" Bandsaw - Upper wheel block

From the last session where we finished installing the motor unit the next job was to bolt the main vertical post to the base box but...I'll put that on hold and build the upper wheel mount assembly which will make it easier to measure and cut the vertical post to ensure I have 70mm between the wheel centers, with the sliding wheel mounting block sitting on the bottom of its frame - more on this later.

This lump of wood will be the upper wheel mounting block, cut to 200mm.

14" Bandsaw project – Motor mount

To reiterate gave up with the hinged motor mount and went for a similar setup like the 8" bandsaw, simply sit the motor base on the floor of the base box. When the motor is positioned correctly for front to back belt alignment and belt tension the pine strip 'clamps' are screwed down to secure the motor.

To further secure the heavy motor fashioned and added a metal strap around the motor body that is screwed down onto mounting posts.

14" Bandsaw - Balancing the lower wheel.

From the previous session I think I've given up with the hinged motor mount due to excessive belt bounce etc. While thinking about that may as well balance the lower wheel. This is a laborious procedure which will need to be repeated for the upper wheel.

While thinking about some other motor mount arrangement let's balance the lower wheel.

14" Bandsaw project - saw motor assembly

There are a few ways to mount the motor. The 8" bandsaw I built earlier this year just sat on the box base and moved left-to-right in mitre slides for belt tension, and front-to-back for V-belt alignment.

The original 14" bandsaw I built in 2014 used a hinged motor mount with threaded rod for belt tension and mitre slides for V-belt alignment.

Decided to go with a hinged motor mount, the weight of the motor (quiet heavy) will assist with V-belt tension.

14" Bandsaw project - layout thoughts

From the last related post trying to work out where to locate the lower wheel and motor in the saw base box. To the left of the wheel will be the main vertical post that will support the upper saw components, the upper wheel mounted in a framed wheel block that will allow for blade tension and blade tracking.

I need to make sure I have enough room for the vertical support post that will be fixed to the left edge of the base box and...some idea of the length or more correctly the height.
Done a mock layout here with the 2553mm blade tensioned around the 14" wheels. Bearing centre to centre is 71mm - write that down.

14" Bandsaw – Wood turning setup

All setup to turn the wheel and cut a crown.

As mentioned in the previous post I had to swap over the setup to have the wheel on the right so it's spins down onto the wood chisel which is supported by the 'tool rest'.

14" Bandsaw - wheel video clip

14" Bandsaw – wood turning jig setup

Time to setup the saw motor with a V-belt to drive the first wheel for wood turning and cutting a crown on the circumference.

The V-groove drive ring is screwed on, now to mount the wheel on the jig shaft.

14" Bandsaw - Continued with the drive ring.

Cut out the middle using a new ALDI Workzone jigsaw with awful results. Hmmm...should have used a jigsaw 'scroll saw' blade to follow the cut line.

14" Bandsaw – Turning the wheels

Yesterday…after fitting the V-groove pulley (doughnut) so the wheel can be spun up from the motor, I turned the first wheel for run-out and also cut the 5 crown on the rim – this will become the upper wheel. For this session I removed the doughnut from the first wheel and fitted to the second wheel. Now we repeat the wood turning procedure for the second wheel, the doughnut remains on what is now - the lower wheel.

This is the first wheel put aside, time to mount the second one on the wood turning jig clamped to the workbench.

14" Bandsaw – V-belt pulley

Setting up a router jig to make the V-groove pulley. The first wheel becomes the upper wheel. After this the pulley is removed and screwed to the second wheel and the process is repeated. The pulley remains on the second wheel which becomes – the lower wheel.

Having mounted the bearing flanges on both wheels and as mentioned in the previous bandsaw post I now need to make a temporary drive pulley or doughnut with a V-groove so I can spin each wheel from the saw motor to true the circumference for run-out with a wood chisel. For this sort of stuff you must have a router mounted in a router table. The ALDI setup is OK for my needs - with modifications.

14" Bandsaw – More wheel work

Continued with the wheels today in two sessions posted here in one post.

Lost of hole cores for making smaller knobs.

My 2018 Bandsaw

This one to replace the 2014 saw lost in the 2016 shed fire.

Click on picture to view construction in chronological order.