14” Bandsaw – Crank handle 2

With the epoxy cured well enough to continue we can mark out the handle profile.

14” Bandsaw – Crank handle 1

Finished the tension leaf spring (damper).

Move on now to making the tension rod crank handle. From MDF the handle itself plus two blocks to hold the 5/16” nut coupler.

14” Bandsaw – Tension leaf spring 2

Picking up from where I left this morning…

we will continue with the ‘leaf spring’.

14” Bandsaw – Tension leaf spring 1

The upper wheel assembly still needs a tension leaf spring which acts like a damper to absorb upper saw vibrations. This also prolongs blade life.

Above is cropped photo is from the original 14” bandsaw that was lost in the shed fire last year. If you look closely the top length of pine that has been resawn twice, meaning cut length wise or ripped twice – into three pieces. They are stacked in cut order, clamped and a clearance hole bored for the big tension rod. As the crank handle is wound up to set correct blade tension the ‘leaf spring’ bends under the load to act as a vibration damper during operation.

14” Bandsaw – temporary table done

Completed the under table bracing making sure I aligned things as I went along.

After I finish the blade tension leaf spring (damper) on top of the upper wheel assembly I’ll be back under here to do the lower blade guides – making progress now.

14” Bandsaw – More table work

With the upper blade guides completed and before moving on to the lower guides I’ll do some more work on the table. Even though this is a temporary one it still needs to be sturdy and square in all directions with respect to the blade.

Using a Stanley roofing square to check across and down the table.

14” Bandsaw – Blade guides 3

From the previous session we finished with the thrust bearing sliding arm, which also contains the sliding guide block from the top, which is now ready to drill and file a slotted hole through which will pass a 5/16th rod.

Need to drill out the pilot hole with a 6.5mm bit and the run through a 5/15th tap.